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How to install component speakers into a Nissan Pulsar.

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  • How to install component speakers into a Nissan Pulsar.

    Hey there everyone,

    If you’re a member of other car forums you may’ve seen our ‘how to’ threads regarding component speaker installation. I've received emails aplenty asking if we could repost our tutorial up here for installing component speakers into the Pulsar. It used to be a sticky on the PGA forums years ago, but seems to have fallen by the wayside somewhere. So without further ado; here we go.

    Just as an aside; these images are taken across numerous installs if you’re wondering why the differing doors, and although this is only one particular type of Pulsar the concept remains the same across the entire range.

    Step one: Take one original door complete from factory. Give them a nice clean and remove any debris and dust.

    Step two: Apply sound deadening to the entire outer skin.

    Step three: Add diffuser panels behind the speaker to combat wave reflections. Now it’s important to note that this is only necessary if you’re using deadening with an alloy skin. Products like Focal BAM already have a foam layer installed so it’s acts as a diffuser.

    Step four: Run your aftermarket speaker cables through the loom tubes into the doors. This ensures you have adequately sized cables for higher current flow as the factory speaker cables are not overly large.

    Step five: Make the baffles in a similar shape to the factory drivers. These must locate through the factory holes to avoid damaging the door, thus meaning when you sell the car the factory speakers can go right back in. Our baffles are usually constructed from timber but we've made them from Perspex or even 6061 alloy depending on application. If they’re timber then they should be painted with polyester resin and black paint to avoid absorbing water and being seen through the factory grille.

    Step six: Sound deaden inner skin and remove all air bubbles. Make sure you leave enough clearance for door handle and lock control rods to move freely. Also leave a little deadening around the top of the speaker hole to act as a 'roof' against water when it rains.

    Step seven: Screw the baffle onto the door and seal the baffle onto the deadening with gap filler. Make sure you also install a gasket between the speaker and the spacers because air leaks out here too (ever tried to run your car without a head gasket)?

    Step eight: Solder the trimmed speaker wires onto speaker. Don't use crimp terminals because their two best traits are falling off and creating resistance.

    Step nine: Heat shrink around the terminals to protect them. Unlike electrical tape, heat shrink will not fall off after a couple of months.

    Step ten: When it comes to the smaller driver; we tend to machine up a small bracket to hold the drivers in place, attaching them via an OEM mounting point. Because many Pulsars don’t have separate tweeters we often mount them over the midrange and angle them upwards for better stage height.

    Step eleven: Sit back and enjoy your new found midbass. This is what the door looks like when complete:

    So there you go folks; that’s how you do a component set installation on the Pulsar. Using this method you have about 68mm of mounting depth in the doors. Any deeper than that you’ll find the speaker surround will impact on the door trim and the magnet may foul on the window and its associated mechanisms.

    If you’re a serious sound quality enthusiast though, and are looking for the ultimate staging and imaging; then you might still want to consider making a set of custom a-pillars to mount your tweeters and midranges on. Because whilst the factory location is more than adequate, especially if you’re running a processor; you will discover that firing directly into the windscreen does pose certain sound azimuth and dispersion issues.

    If you wish to read more about what sound deadening, diffuser panels and sealing does click here.

    If you wish to find out more about staging, imaging and how our ears relate to them both click here and click here.

    I hope that helps you guys out.

  • #2
    You don't happen to have a tutorial for the 98-05 Suzuki grand vitara do you? I've started my install but came to a halt yesterday when I went to run speaker wire into the doors because they have molex plugs and I'm not sure how to handle the job. I tried to unplug them to have a look but I can't get all the clips to release, I think I'm going to have to pull the door off to get to them.

    thanks for any advice you can give.



    • #3
      Hey there Mark,

      Whilst we don't have one written up as of yet sadly, can I ask as to why you're needing to upgrade the speaker cables through to the doors? Please correct me if I'm mistaken; but don't those cars already have 16AWG copper speaker cables running out to the doors?


      • #4
        They're not that big, I was planning to run 16g as the front stage amp is 150wrms and the new wire is a fair bit thicker than the factory stuff. Would it be silly to run the bigger stuff up and tap into the harness behind the head unit where I can be sure what wire does what? Where the door loom comes into the cabin there are masses of looms and I can't even see the back of the molex plug.


        • #5
          Originally posted by Wreckingball View Post
          Would it be silly to run the bigger stuff up and tap into the harness behind the head unit where I can be sure what wire does what?
          That's not a silly supposition at all. Remember there're two fundamental aspects of power which many tend to overlook. The first pertains to music; in that it’s a constantly changing sinusoidal waveform. Akin to how your engine idles at 1000rpm and redlines at 8000rpm; how often do you sit on either when you're cruising around? Music is similar. In that one doesn’t always need to flow maximum power continuously when listening to normal music, as it’s not always absolutely playing everything maximum at all times.

          The second element of power pertains to intrinsic speaker design, a topic which I've addressed here:

          In summary if you're feeding the speakers square waveforms ala SPL competition, at a consistent 99% volume then yes; you will need to fuss over the cables. However if you’re simply playing regular music then you’ll be just fine in doing what you’ve suggested above.


          • #6
            Thanks fhrx that's an interesting article. I will now run the wires from the Amps to the harness and let the factory wiring handle it from there. Just po'd that I lost a day trying to get the rubber boot back on the molex plug today and ended up pulling the door off to get it????